Different mens suits fabrics defines how the overall suit will hold up, feel, and look. Knowing the background of different mens suits fabrics will provide you with a better knowledge of which one to choose for your tailored or off-rack mens suits.
The Non-Wool Fabrics
Linen
A light and soft material used mainly during summer. It gives a very relaxed tropical feel. However, linen wrinkles easily and has a tendency to fade when prolong exposure under the sun. It is also a material that stains easily and needs constant cleaning.
Cotton
One of mens suits fabrics for the summer due to its airy feel allowing your skin to “breathe”. It has a very nice feel to the skin since it is made from natural fibre. However, it has the same problem with linen in that it creases easily. This can make your suit look crumpled but probably not as much as a linen suit.
Polyester
This is a synthetic fabric and can feel like natural fibre fabrics but it can trap body heat. So you can feel quite uncomfortable wearing it for long hours. The advantage of polyester is that it does not wrinkle and its cost is a lot cheaper than the natural fibres.
MicroFibers
Another synthetic fabric which is has fibers finer than natural fibers, and hence its name. Due to its finer fibers, it can “breathe” better than polyester and lighter weight than natural fibre fabrics. It is not penetrable by liquid or water but the space between yarns are enough to allow moisture vapor to pass through. One of the lowest costing mens suits fabrics.
My preference for mens suits fabrics would definitely be the natural fibers instead of synthetic ones. Giving your body “breathing” space is important to make the wearing experience comfortable. It also avoids perspiration retention and so there is a lesser chance of leaving your suit with an odor.
The Wool Fabrics
Wool is a common fabric used in mens suits. It can be processed either through worsted or woolen yarn. Worsted yarn would be spun tightly to give a stronger and smoother feel. Woolen yarn spun results in a weaker, bulkier and fuzzier feel.
Tweed
Tweed is a warm and heavy fabric that is durable and moisture resistant. This fabric is usually made from woolen yarn. It has a coarse feel with generally checkered patterns. We would usually see sports jackets made of this fabric.
Herringbone
This fabric has broken weave giving a zig-zag pattern like the skeleton of a herring. It is also seen commonly in sport jackets. We seldom see this fabric in style now. But was once a popular fabric in the forties.
Flannel
A medium-weight fabric that can be plain or twill weaved. It can also be produced by worsted or woolen yarn. It is very suitable for the winter due to it being heavier compared to other wool fabrics. It is a very lasting, rich, and down-to-earth fabric with a soft hand feel. A dark gray flannel suit is a real classic that has been favored by many.
Worsted Wool
Worsted wool is made up of fine and long fiber with a tighter weave. This makes the fabric denser and wrinkle-resistant. It also reduces fibre scale ends next to the skin.
Worsted wool is light and not bulky like other wool. It has a nice drape and wears very well. Most importantly it can be worn year round. It is more airy than polyester so making it cooler. This is commonly used for both light and heavy weight mens suits.
Of all the mens suits fabrics, worsted wool has been well accepted as the standard fabric to use. But there are many different types of high quality wool with different grades to take note of.
Grading of Wool
Good quality wool comes in grading of Super 100’s, 110’s, 120’s, and 150’s.
Higher numbers represents better fineness of the wool fiber. The finer the wool fiber means that more fiber has to be used for the fabric to create a tighter weave, and hence lesser crease and wrinkles on the wool. Naturally, this means that higher the grade the more expensive the wool will be.
Other high quality wools:
Virgin Wool
This is wool which has not been spun or woven before. It comes directly from the fleece of the lamb. It feels very fine and silky since it made of mainly new wool and no recycled wool within.
Merino Wool
It is taken from Merino sheep. It has a finer fiber than worsted wool. The fiber is very short, thin and fine at maximum 23 micron. This is considered premium wool that is best used for clothing.
Lambs Wool
This type of wool is taken from shearing of lamb at young age of up to seven months old. Therefore, it gives a very fine and soft feel about it.
Mens suits fabrics suitable for year round would be these types of high quality wools. Its natural fiber provides comfort, allows your body to "breathe", and can be made into light or heavy suits.
Details on Men's Suits
The Right Fit for Suits
Caring for your Suits
Buying Suits for Mens Wardrobe
