Classic Mens Dress Shoes Styles
for Every Man
Mens dress shoes styles are separated into two main categories: the lace ups and the slip-ons. Generally, the lace-ups are further differentiated into two categories: the blucher lacing and balmoral lacking.
The main difference between these two lacings is the lace-ups area. Blucher lacing are open-throat lacing while the balmoral lacing are closed-throat with a ‘V’ shaped lacing. The pictures below will clearly show their differences.
The left is the blamoral cap-toe oxford by Kenneth Cole and the right is the blucher lacing cap-toe oxford by Cole Haan.
Men requiring high instep or uses high insoles would definitely prefer the blucher lacing. The open-throat allows more adjustment to give way around the instep than balmoral lacing.
Lace-ups are the most acceptable styles around the world for businesswear. Dressiness of lace-up mens dress shoes styles starts from the smoothness of the leather used (rough grain leather are less dressy), followed by the type of lacing (blucher is considered more casual than balmoral), and finally the amount of detailing (the more details like perforation, the less dressy).
Slip-ons or loafers are the other option for mens dress shoes styles that has been regarded as the less formal dress shoes. But we should not assume that all slip-ons are casual. There is a particular category of loafers which are meant for the evening black-tie affairs.
Besides its ease of wear, it is also a versatile pair of mens dress shoes that can is clean in its cut with minimal detailing and suitable for both casual and formal wear.
We will go through a few classic mens dress shoes styles commonly available. There will be some examples of hybrids of these classic styles. It can be difficult to categorize these hybrids, so the fundamental of a well-balanced design coupled with a comfortable fit should be the basis of your consideration for purchase.
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Brogue
This is a term used for all mens dress shoes that have tiny holes punched to form patterns on it. Brogue can have different degrees of perforations. It can be heavily brogue to cover the whole shoe or at least half the shoe which we term full-brogue and half-brogue respectively.
The other style would be called a medallion where brogue is only focused around the shoe toe. As a gentle reminder, the more brogueing found on mens dress shoes, the less dressy the shoe will be.
Cap-Toe Oxfords
These oxfords have a separate leather portion at the shoe toe area. These are smart looking mens dress shoes styles but not as formal as compared the other oxfords due to its additional cap-toe detailing.
Traditional cap-toe oxfords have perforation or brogue (tiny holes punched to form patterns) on the seam separating the cap-toe and the shoe. However, these perforations can be replaced by double rows of fine stitching which is commonly found among cap-toe oxfords nowadays.
Cap-toe oxfords can have either a blucher or balmoral lacing on it. The balmoral with a plain cap-toe oxford creates mens dress shoes styles meant for the conservative men who adore minimal details with a sense of elegance.
Buy stylish and comfortable cap-toes from Cap-Toe Dress Shoes Review.
Plain-Toe Oxfords
One of my favorite mens dress shoes styles. It is simple and yet elegant with an exceptional clean cut. The Plain-Toe Oxfords can have both the blucher lacing and balmoral lacing.
As illustrated in the picture, the Plain-Toe Blucher Oxford definitely has a less formal look compared to the balmoral lacing ones.
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which one and where to buy them.
The Plain-Toe Balmoral Oxfords work well for both business wear as well as formal occasions that require a dressy pair of dress shoes. Its popularity lies on its versatility, elegant, and firm design that draws so many men to it.
The Plain Blucher Oxfords can also transform into a casual style suitable for business wear. The use of rougher grains of leather will make it look less dressy, and examples would be using crocodile skin to create such a look.
Wing Tips
These are the greatest example of mens dress shoes styles with brogue. Its name is derived by the brogue design on the shoe toe resembling stretch-out wings.
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Due to the brogues, Wing Tips look bulkier and less sleek than Cap-Toe or Plain Blucher Oxfords. Therefore, it is a less formal mens dress shoe and meant more for business wear and sports coats.
Wing Tips usually come in black or tan brown. Personally, I find the tan brown more exciting because it usually brings out the contrasting colors of the shoes and perforations. Black would be too blend and the brogue would not stand out as much.
Pants that are suitable to be worn with Wing Tips would be the heavier weight fabrics to balance out the bulky feel of the shoes. Examples would be tweed and flannels.
Buck Oxfords
Well-known as a summer shoe, the buckskin or suede shoes are a break from the usual leather mens dress shoes styles. These mens dress shoes were originally made from suede buckskin, but nowadays mostly are from calfskin.
It is different from leather mens dress shoes because of its nap finishing with a velvety texture which resembles greatly that of fabric. So the standard cap-toes or blucher oxfords with or without brogue can have an alternative finishing with suede to finish off your wardrobe with a difference.
The white Buck Oxfords are made from white-colored calfskin are most suitable for the summer. However, matching against summer suits have to be careful. We would still want to maintain consistency between the color tones of the dress shoes and the suits. So light-colored cream cotton or linen suits would go best with the White Buck Oxfords.
The tan brown suede is one of the most versatile mens dress shoes styles for all seasons. The earth tone blends in well with light-colored spring/summer clothing. Yet the heavy winter clothing suits the lack-luster refinement of the brown suede.
The Turf or Chukka Boots
These mens dress shoes styles have many hybrids in the market now. The traditional Chukka Boots have only two lace eyelets, but nowadays we will commonly see three to four eyelets for these boots.
Chukkas are commonly in tan brown shades for calfskin leather or a russet shade of suede. These pair of shoes is versatile when worn with both formal dress pants fabrics like flannel or worsted wool and less formal ones like moleskin and corduroys. This positions it as a popular mens dress shoes styles internationally.
Split-toe or Norwegian
The most popular Norwegian mens dress shoes styles were the ones introduced by J.M. Weston in the 1950s.
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The uniqueness of the Split-toe is the vertical hand-stitched seam at the center of the shoe toe. This seam connects two pieces of leather on the sides as well as the third portion on the top of the vamp.
The Norwegians are generally more bulky with heavier leather finishing and thicker soles which are meant for the outdoors. Of course, nowadays we have hybrids which make it sleeker and elegant to suit a wider taste for business wear.
For this section, we will discuss about the different mens dress shoes styles for Slip-ons.
Explore Slip-on Dress Shoes Review for the right pair of slip-ons to buy.
Penny Loafers
Known as “Weejun” in the 1930s, these mens dress shoes styles evolved and became known as penny loafer which were popularized by students in Eastern universities then. The distinguishing part about the penny loafers is the slit at the instep portion.
Initially, it was commonly worn as summer shoe and weekend shoe but the penny loafer started to gain popularity as part of business wear.
Tassle Loafers
Distinguished by its dangling leather florets, these sporty shoes are gaining prominence within American casual business wear. Its appropriateness as part of business attire is still questionable because of its overly casualness among mens dress shoes styles.
Plain Loafer
My personal preference for clean sleek designs leads to my affection for Plain Loafers. These loafers have the same designs as penny or tassle but without their respective slits or tangling florets.
Strong emphasis is put on the leather used. Depending on the level of formality, the stiffness of the leather is important. Kid leather would be a lot softer than calfskin and hence a more casual style toward it.
Side Gusset Shoes
These are only widely found among bespoke mens dress shoes. It has an elastic side which allows a good fit as a slip-on. The refinement of such mens dress shoes is the stitching and trimming of the elastic side gussets.
Monk Straps
Its name is derived from the designs of footwear worn by monks in the European monasteries. The unique detail for these mens dress shoes styles lies on three portions:
The strap across the instep to be fastened on the buckle located on a saddle that is on the side of the shoe.
Actually the monk straps are a combination of both slip-ons and lace-ups, but the replacement of the strap provides a closer fit around the ankle. They are suitable for both casual and business wear only, not dressy enough for formal occasions or functions.
Formal Pumps
Interestingly, these pumps are considered the most prominent of all mens dress shoes styles for formal or even black-tie affairs. These are usually black and with patent such that they give off a shiny finishing.
This patented leather also has other detailing like silk bows which nowadays are rarely seen among black-tie affairs.
The various mens dress shoes styles covered are basically falling into two main categories: Oxfords and Slip-ons. The style that best suits you should always depend on the occasion for wearing, the comfort, and a well-balanced design with quality detailing.
Great resources on mens dress shoes:
Details on Dress Shoes
Good Fit into Dress Shoes
How to Coordinate Dress Shoes with Mens Suits or Pants
Caring for Your Dress Shoes
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