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Important Mens Dress Shirts Details
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Stitching
Important mens dress shirts details that can judge good craftsmanship is the side seam stitching with single-needle stitch. It involves sewing twice along the shirt seams with one needle.
From the outside of the shirt, you will only see a single row of stitch on the seams. In order to give such clean finishing for dress shirts details would mean requiring great skills as well as time.
However, most dress shirts are sewn double-needle for commercial reasons. It involves sewing the side seams over a double-needle machine. It helps saves time and holds the seams strongly. Poorly executed double-needle stitch can pucker over time due to tension between the fabric and threading.
So single-needle stitch is usually found in bespoke among dress shirts. But there are still some off-rack dress shirts with such high quality stitching available.
Collars
Collars are the most important part among mens dress shirts details for its overall styling because it draws attention to the man’s face as well as giving an illusion of shaping it.
For example, men with small faces should avoid wide collars otherwise the collar will overwhelm the face. Similarly for big face men should avoid wearing narrow collars since it will enhance further the size of their head.
Such guidance keeps our choice of collar focused on providing compliments to the physical facial structure rather than following fashion trends specifically.
Stitching on the collar defines a lot about the quality. The collar is made by folding the fabric and then stitched around the edges to hold the fold in place. The stitch should not be more than ¼ inches from the perimeter of the collar.
Cuffs
One of the stylistic mens dress shirts details is the cuffs. There are two choices of cuffs available for dress shirts: French cuffs and Barrel cuffs.
The former consist of a double-folded cuff that requires cuff links to lock it in place. While the barrel cuff involves a single button or double button already attached to hold the cuff points together.
French cuffs give an overall dressier feel over the barrel cuffs and also makes a more formal finishing for the dress shirt with elegance.
The shirt arm sleeves circumference is reduced from the bigger area of the bicep all the way to the smallest area of the arm, the wrist. The end of the shirt arm is then sewn into the cuffs. We should take note of the fine stitching around this cuff area.
Further defining quality on mens dress shirts details is to provide pleating on the sleeves before tucking into the cuffs. It involves folds the sleeves with precision, instead of tapering the shirt arm sleeves, before sewing it into the cuffs. Lots of care and craftsmanship is required to attain such quality.
Yoke
Though this is one of the non-functional mens dress shirts details, we would still look into it since it can still define quality of dress shirts from it.
The yoke involves a woven fabric sewn behind the shoulders to attach the front and back pieces of the shirt. In bespoke dress shirts, we will often see the use of split yoke. It is where two yokes for each should is joint at halfway point between the shoulder blades with a perpendicular seam.
A split yoke is supposed to allow the custom tailors to adjust the dress shirt shoulders separately to custom fit accordingly.
Pockets
The pockets are usually placed on the right side of the dress shirt. My personal bespoke dress shirts do not have any pockets. The reasons are I like a clean finish on my dress shirts and also to avoid the habit of storing items within the shirt pocket.
There is always a tendency to damage our dress shirt when putting items into the pockets especially pens. You never know when the pen might leak and damage your dress shirt. There are men who like to keep a lot of things in their shirt pocket making it bulky and bulging out from their chest area.
Placket
This is the front portion of the dress shirt where the buttonholes are sewn. There are a few variations for the placket that can be found on dress shirts. Especially on bespoke dress shirts, we can choose to play around with these placket styles to create an individualistic mens dress shirts details.
It is recommended that plackets are made approximately 1.5 inches wide and runs along the center line of dress shirts. It should give a clean finish when shirt sides are buttoned together. Again, the stitching on the placket should be fine such that they are close to being invisible
Usually the placket is made by having the fabric folded backward at the edge and the buttons and buttonholes sewn on it to keep the placket in tact.
The placket can also have a separate piece of the fabric sewn to the front or the fabric folded to the forward at the edge to give the dress shirt an extra touch of design.
To create a buttonless look for your dress shirt, the placket can be sewn by two folded fabrics one over the other and the buttonholes placed at the underneath folded fabric where the front will cover the sight of the buttonholes.
Buttons
The most commonly neglected mens dress shirts details would be the buttons. The material used for buttons should not be fragile since they are handled most often when wearing a shirt. Today many of the buttons on off-rack dress shirts are made of plastics since they are more durable.
High quality fine dress shirts usually have mother-of-pearl which is known to be fragile. Yet the natural finishing of mother-of-pearl gives nice luster and perks up the finishing of a dress shirt.
Stitching of the buttons are important points to take note of. It should be sewn firmly with a cross-stitch and this cannot be achieved by sewing machines. Firmly does not mean tightly because the buttons must have some rooms for mobility when sliding into the buttonholes.
Gauntlet
The gauntlet is the placket found on the sleeves where it is an open area before the cuffs. There is a choice to have an additional button sewn on the placket to have the open area closed when wearing the dress shirt. It provides a better fit for the sleeves around the forearms. Gauntlets are another mens dress shirts details showing quality and style.
Generally, I have a gauntlet button on all my dress shirts to avoid showing too much of my wrist to forearm area. Besides helping to keep the cuffs closed, it also allows to roll back the cuffs with ease.
Dress Shirts Collars
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